THE CYCLEWAY ACROSS THE TOWNS OF LOMBARDY AND VENETO

STAGE 1

(Brescia - Verona, 83 km)

 From Brescia, a city of ancient origins, poised between its Lombard ethnic roots and a loyalty to the rule of the Serenissima that earned it the sobriquet of Italy's Lioness, later proven by the steadfast resolve it showed when it took part in the Risorgimento, we then re-enter Veneto and ride towards Verona, a walled city (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) with a very long history, set in a scenic bend of the Adige River, in the heart of northern Italy, and a natural gateway into the Po Valley from the Germanic world, long a lively crossroads for peoples and trade. Our itinerary will take us over the Moraines of Verona and Brescia's Lake Garda, a relaxing landscape of gently rolling hills covered by vineyards (the celebrated Custoza and Bardolino DOC wines are made here), olive groves, orchards and wheat fields. This idyllic scenery, however, was the stage of epic battles during the Risorgimento, as illustrated by the tale of the Sardinian Drummer Boy from "Heart", half history and half legend. The tower of San Martino della Battaglia also bears witness to those turbulent times; the town is named after the fierce battle that took place in 1859. This delightful scenery is also criss-crossed by the “Terre del Custoza” (Custoza lands) cycle touring itinerary, which we will describe more in detail below, and whose many, attractive trails may call for a half-way stop.

From Piazza della Loggia, the heart of Brescia (km 0.0), we head east through piazzale Arnaldo and take the bike path on viale Venezia. After riding past the Museum of the Mille Miglia, the famous motor endurance race, which took place from 1927 to 1957 (km 4.6), you go through the hamlet of Sant’Eufemia and the centre of Rezzato (km 9.0). Near Virle (km 11.1) turn right, then follow the Naviglio Grande Bresciano canal for a while. After the centre of Mazzano (km 12.8) there is an important junction: if you turn left you head towards Salò and Lake Garda along the Gavardina bike path, which we will describe below. However, we turn right towards Desenzano, go through the hamlet of Molinetto (km 14.1) and continue over the river Chiese in Pontenove (km 17.2), in a scenic setting. Sedena (km 23.2), near Lonato del Garda, marks the start of the stretch through Brescia's lush and rolling moraine hills, characterised by gentle climbs and descents: after reaching a scenic viewpoint on the lower lake (km 25.1), you descend and then climb back up into the possessions of the Maguzzano Abbey, on a beautiful and fun hilly route, which you exit at km 28.7. Shortly after, you pass under the railway and turn left immediately, then follow the tracks into the centre of Desenzano del Garda, a few metres from the railway station (km 30.9), should you need to take a train, from which you can easily get to the picturesque historical harbour. The route continues towards Pozzolengo, always in hilly country, through the hamlet of Rivoltella del Garda, where you pass under the railway again (km 35.4), continue straight on, over the A4 motorway and the TAV high-speed line, until you come onto the quiet Montonale road. At km 41.6, after a short but steep climb, you ride next to the austere tower of San Martino della Battaglia, erected to mark a pivotal episode of the Second War of Independence. After riding down the hill on which the tower stands, you go through another beautiful moraine section. At km 47.0, you will leave the Brescia area and enter the Veneto at Broglie, near Peschiera del Garda, from which a short detour takes you to the Madonna del Frassino sanctuary. However, our route continues south, and enters Lombardy again almost immediately, although in the province of Mantua this time, through the picturesque hamlet of Ponti sul Mincio (km 51.7). After the Virgilio canal intake structure (km 55.5), we enter the Veneto Region for good at the Salionze dam on the river Mincio (km 56.1). Here, if we continue on the west bank of the river for about 6 km we can get to Peschiera del Garda admiring, as we approach, the mighty fortifications protected by the moat. Our route, however, crosses the dam and then follows the left embankment upstream for about 1 km, before turning right and following the signs for Verona. After a short climb through a forest, you go through the town of Salionze (km 57.7), then ride in a pleasant hilly landscape, through the hamlet of Oliosi (km 60.1) and, after a few ups and downs, through the hamlet of San Rocco di Sona (km 62.7) with its early 16th century parish church. After the downhill bit from San Rocco, you take a right (km 63,8) on a dirt road that leads to the fine villa Guastalla Nuova (km 64.3), which you leave behind on a beautiful tree-lined avenue. After carefully crossing a junction (km 64,9), the avenue climbs gently into the old town of Sommacampagna (km 68.4), the ideal place for a relaxing half-way break.

After that, you leave Sommacampagna behind and ride through the hamlet of Caselle (km 73.3); after the motorway underpass you enter the municipal area of Verona with the hamlets of Casona (km 75.5) and San Massimo (km 78.1). You now enter the city of Verona: after a short stretch along Corso Milano (km 79.9) and on the cycle path of the Camuzzoni canal (km 81.3) you will reach the Venetian walls and go through the San Zeno gate (km 82.1). From there, you immediately arrive on the piazza of the beautiful Romanesque basilica of San Zeno (km 82.3) and ride along the Adige, with a fine view over Castelvecchio, until finally (km 83.8) you reach the city's very heart, piazza Bra, in the centre of which is the monumental imperial Roman Arena.

Possible detours

• The Gavardina bike path, which we mentioned earlier, starts in Mazzano if you come from Brescia, goes through Gavardo, and takes you to Salò, one of the most charming hamlets on the Brescia shore of Lake Garda.

• The Mincio cycleway from Peschiera to Mantua is an integral part of the Sun Route (Eurovelo 7, Bicitalia 1). From Peschiera, the Sun Route continues north on the Veronese shore of the lake and goes through Castelnuovo, Lazise and Bardolino. Then, it goes around Mt. Moscal and heads inland, past Affi and up to Rivoli Veronese, the town overlooking val Lagarina, where the river Adige flows. From Rivoli, the cycle path follows the river Adige through Avio, Ala, Rovereto, Trento and Bozen and then follows the river Isarco to cross the border at the Brenner Pass. More information on www.bicitalia.org.

• The “Terre del Custoza” itinerary across the Veronese Moraine municipalities of Sommacampagna, Bussolengo, Villafranca, Sona, Valeggio sul Mincio and Castelnuovo del Garda that seeks to promote the outstanding environmental and cultural attractions of this area between Verona and Lake Garda (“Terre del Custoza” consortium). In particular, various types of accurately and specifically signposted cycling routes turn the area into an actual cycle touring park. For more information, see www.terredelcustoza.com/it/esperienze/itinerari-cicloturistici.

• Verona is one of the main stops on the Adige cycle path (RV3), that leads from northern Europe straight to the Adriatic beaches.

If you head north from Verona (km 0) the cycle path runs along the Biffis canal to Bussolengo (km 12) and Rivoli Veronese (km 30), where it joins the Sun Route to Rovereto (km 75), Trento (km 100) and Bozen (km 163). From Bozen you can continue north along the Isarco to Bressanone-Brixen (km 208) and the Brenner pass (km 263), or just before Bozen (km 157) you can continue west along the Adige towards Merano (km 185), and from Merano along val Venosta until Reschen Pass (km 263).

When you head south from Verona (km 0) the cycle path is again segregated in Porto di San Giovanni Lupatoto (km 10), then continues on the right bank towards Legnago (km 51), the junction for the Chiara Lubich cycle path (km 95.9) that takes you to the centre of Rovigo after 2 km, and Cavarzere (km 124.4), to the river mouth in Rosolina Mare (km 149.5). 9 km before the river mouth you can cross the river and you will arrive in Chioggia after about 18 km, as indicated in the corresponding stage of the main Green Tour loop.